The Teddington Gardener

Rose Pruning Masterclass – with a little help from my friends….

IMG_6944Two pieces here, very wordy (though by no means not all my words) first from the RHS Magazine, followed by a wander through their Pruning and Training Book. Quite a lot that you might need to know about pruning summer-flowering and repeat-flowering Old Roses, what I still call Hybrid Teas and Floribunda roses, Climbers and Ramblers, and a few suggestions too for roses for particular jobs – pergolas, arches, obelisks and growing into trees for example – or in more difficult growing situations.

Grab a coffee and sit back for some quiet reading-time.

RHS masterclass – Pruning Roses

This article appeared in the RHS magazine The Garden last month and is a succinct gallop through the pruning techniques for a variety of rose types and situations.

Giving the right care, and pruning in the dormant season, will greatly improve the flowering performance of these traditional garden favourites

Author: Ian Bull, Garden Manager, RHS Garden Hyde Hall. Photography: Tim Sandall

Roses are among the greatest flowering plants, typically reaching their peak in June when they fill the air with fragrance and produce a dazzling array of flowers in almost every colour apart from true blue. These amazing blooms are produced on roses that range from low groundcover plants to modern ‘English roses’, from those the size of small trees to climbers and ramblers.

To ensure roses produce the best display of flowers year after year, they need annual pruning to maximise new flowering wood, and to prevent plants from becoming leggy with old, unproductive growth that produces few flowers.

Gardeners are best advised to prune roses through the dormant season (from November to March) to ensure the plants are in optimum condition for the new season; the exact timing depends on the type of rose as well as the prevailing weather conditions. The aim of pruning is to encourage the rose to produce healthy and vigorous new growth on a well-branched framework from which the flower buds will be formed.

Pruning also allows you to get the plant ready for its best flowering performance by removing crossing and congested branches as well as all dead and diseased wood – again, to ensure the rose remains healthy and vigorous. If the soil is waterlogged, avoid pruning unless you are working on boards. Similarly, beware pruning if the weather is icy or frosty, as the pruning cuts can crush the stem.

As with most pruning, the first to remove are the ‘three Ds’: dead, diseased and damaged wood.

Always prune out rubbing and crossing branches as this can provide an access point for diseases.

Rose pruning varies between selections so be sure to use the right approach.

Hybrid Tea, Floribunda and English roses

These Large- and Cluster-flowered bush roses have an upright branching structure and bear flowers in clusters.

Hybrid Tea or Large-flowered roses are pruned in early March when the risk of frost has subsided. The aim is to create an open- centred plant with branches evenly spaced in the shape of a goblet. This produces a well-balanced plant and allows good air circulation.

As with all pruning, remove the ‘three Ds’ (dead, diseased and damaged wood) first along with all crossing branches.

Then prune stems to three or four buds above last year’s cut, just above an outward-facing bud. Cut up to a quarter of the older stems back to the main stem each year to maintain the vigour. You can also tidy previous season’s cuts where ‘knuckles’ (calluses that form due to repeated pruning in the same place) have developed (inset), as this is often where disease and dieback begin. Prune back hard any strong new growths that emerge from the plant’s base so that the following, second year’s growth will flower at the same height as the established framework.

Floribunda or Cluster-flowered roses have a greater branching framework, producing clusters of smaller flowers in a larger quantity. Prune slightly less ‘hard’ than a Hybrid Tea rose, as the branching framework should be encouraged to increase flowering. Cut stems back only to four to six buds above last year’s pruning point.

English roses are a fairly new group of roses bred since the 1970s by David Austin, combining the wide colour range and repeat flowering of modern bush roses with the flower structure and fragrance of old species. Prune as you would a Floribunda rose. English roses can produce long, strong new growths through summer: in the early autumn cut these back by half to avoid wind-rock. Treat an English rose as Floribunda roses: to promote flower development, prune while dormant, creating a frame- work of branches and stems with several buds each.

Climbers and Ramblers

Generally, Climbing roses repeat flower while Ramblers tend to flower only once. They are pruned differently: all the old flowered growth is removed from Ramblers, but most is retained for Climbing roses.

Prune Climbing roses also from October; they are less vigorous than ramblers so do not need pruning as ‘hard’. New growth should be retained and flowering spurs pruned to two buds. Keep the bulk of the established framework unless it is dead, diseased or damaged. To regenerate a climber, cut a quarter of the older stems hard; if there is no new growth, cut back to within 40cm (16in) of the ground.

On an obelisk

When training climbers to an obelisk ensure stems remain on the outside to enable foliage and flowers to cover the structure. Wrap stems around the obelisk as low as possible – almost horizontally – because if you train them straight up you get a bare frame at the base.

Removing the weaker shoots and stems will ensure only the strongest ones form part of the structure along the rope.

Prune Ramblers from October onwards. It is easier to train the plant the earlier it is pruned. Ramblers flower best on new wood, so remove all flowered wood and keep new growth. Flowered wood will have hips and can be cut back to the base of the plant to a point where a new growth emerges. Prune sideshoots to one or two buds to encourage flowering next year.

On a wall

If trained on a wall it is important to remove any growth from behind the support. When tying the rose in, consider the overall shape you are trying to create. Tie in the established stems first then overlay the younger arching growth, making sure there are even spaces between the stems.

Modern shrub

These large shrubs with diverse origins were introduced in the past century.

Many more-recent roses are larger than Hybrid Teas, often forming sizeable plants with a branching structure. Modern shrub roses such as these should be pruned in the dormant season, and while an open centre is ideal, it is more important to build up a branching framework with sideshoots that produce flowering spurs. When pruning, reduce the main stems by around a third and the sideshoots by a half to two thirds. Only thin out one or two of the older stems if necessary. Pruning into a goblet shape can prevent stems from growing inward and rubbing.

Cut the main stems of a modern shrub rose back by a third in the dormant season.

On a rope

Prune rope-trained rambling roses in November and December following the same principles as pruning on a wall. Tie them in to create a sweeping curve with a high ‘shoulder’ stretching down to a low tip. Both shoulders should be well balanced and the stems evenly placed. Weave the stems around the rope in a ‘basket’ effect, with the established stems tied first and the new ones added afterwards.

For ramblers, remove flowered growth and prune sideshoots before tying in stems.

For vigorous growth, even when paired with a clematis, retain the framework and spur prune sideshoots.

When there are plenty of stems to work with, tie them together and to the rope to create a ‘shoulder’ structure of stems.

Weave the remaining strong shoots around each other and tie to the rope in order to create an interwoven pattern.

Standards and weeping roses

Roses budded to a tall stem and grown as standards can be pruned much like a bush rose. Weeping standard roses, more akin to ramblers, need a slightly different approach to get the best out of the new growth and flowers.

Standard roses add height to a border and are created using a long cane rootstock, onto which the chosen rose cultivar is budded. Prune the same way as if it was grown as a  bush.

Weeping standard roses are usually ramblers or procumbent roses that have been budded onto a rootstock cane. It is important to retain the new growth of these roses, only removing the ‘three Ds’ and one or two of the older stems to keep an open structure to the plant.

Thin the crown – A sure sign that a standard rose is in need of pruning is when it has developed a congested crown.

Preserve framework – Prune a standard rose as you would a bush rose, aiming for an open crown with a well- balanced framework.

Bountiful blooms – By pruning in this way you will encourage the rose to put on new growth and plenty of flowers.

Ground cover and hedging

Roses that are low growing require different pruning techniques due to their habit.

Ground Cover roses produce small flowers on arching stems and can cover large areas with their spread. There are two types: shrub types that remain as a bush; and spreading, rambler types whose stems may reach 3m (10ft) along the ground. Ground Cover roses only need light pruning: remove the ‘three Ds’ and any weak shoots, but once the rose has reached its allotted space it may need harder pruning. Cut back upright shoots and reduce strong sideshoots by a third. If the rose becomes overgrown remove a third of the congested stems.

Hedging roses can be used in many situations and some species such as Rosa rugosa make great hedges. Pruning depends on how formal you wish the barrier to be. Rosa rugosa make fine informal barriers; prune in winter, removing the ‘three Ds’. Depending on the size of the hedge, the top or the sides may need reducing – cut to a healthy bud, and remove up to a quarter of the old stems to generate new growth.

Ground Cover roses, such as Rosa Flower Carpet White (‘Noaschnee’), can provide blooms over large areas.

Give hedges a light trim in winter, removing old flowers and hips.

 

The following notes are from the rather dense (I mean wordy) RHS book on Pruning and Training. Nevertheless, pure Gold.

 

ROSE GROUPS, GROWTH HABITS and ADDITIONAL PRUNING NOTES

 

Shrub Roses

The shrub roses, useful in borders and mixed plantings, form a disparate group although in general only require a light pruning. The old garden roses are a major category. Many are of great beauty as well as having considerable historical interest. They all belong to groups that existed before the introduction in the late 19th century of the large-flowered bushes – Hybrid Teas. Most have semi-double or double flowers but their colour range is limited to whites and shades of pink.

The earliest historically – the Alba, Damasks, Gallicas. Provence roses (Centifolias) and mosses (sports of Provence roses with mossy growth on sepals and flower stalks) – with few exceptions have a single flush of flowers in the summer. These should be pruned after flowering.

The repeat-flowering characteristics, found in the China roses in the late 19th century – was passed on to the Bourbons, Hybrid Perpetuals and Portland roses, which are important precursors of the modern, freely repeat-flowering bush roses. None of these roses usually requires heavy pruning but the regime depends on the scale and vigour of the plant and whether it is repeat flowering. These repeat flowering roses should be pruned in the dormant season.

In the 20th Century and beyond, growers have continued hybridising roses to produce modern shrub roses, combining desirable characteristics of modern roses with old and even species roses, for example Golden Wings, produce at least to flushes of flowers in the same summer; others of compact habit are increasingly popular as ground cover plants.

Old Roses of spreading habit

A large number of old garden roses have an arching habit and when placing them in the garden allowance must be made for this spread and for their long thorny stems which may encroach on neighbouring plants. Shortening these stems to restrict their size and spread will spoil this graceful, informal habit. However, light annual pruning, removing some of the older wood, can keep them under control and enhance their flowering performance.

Albas, Damask, Mosses and Provences – once established, cut out dead diseased and dying wood and thin crossing stems. Then cut back main shoots and laterals by one third of their length. In the autumn, extra-long whippy shoots can be shortened so that they are not damaged by winter winds.

Old Rose of upright habit – including the Gallicas

Among the old roses are a number of medium size and upright growth, often forming dense twiggy shrubs. Like other Old Roses they do not require heavy pruning, but some thinning (laterals can be cut back close to the main stem) and occasional removal of entire older stems will relieve congestion and stimulate the production of new vigorous growth that will flower well in future summers.  Many gallicas, a group of old garden roses that bear a single flush of flowers in midsummer, have this habit. Pruning after flowering like this can be complimented by lightly shearing over the plant in the winter – but not to a formal shape.

Renovation – Old and neglected Gallicas  – and many summer-flowering Old Roses too – will often respond well if pruned drastically in early spring, all but the most vigorous young stems being taken out completely.

 

Modern Shrub Roses

The modern shrub roses are very diverse in size, growth habit and manner of flowering. Some resemble species roses, bearing single flowers on arching stems. Others are more upright that equal those of a modern bush rose in fullness. Whether flowering in a single flush or repeat-flowering, however, they do not need the heavy pruning that is used to maximise the flowering performance of modern bush roses and their character is easily spoiled by severe pruning.

Hybrid Musks are vigorous repeat-flowering, leafy shrubs and can be pruned while dormant – taking out the three D’s, and one or two of the oldest, least productive stems. Cut back the main stems by up to a third and the laterals by half.

Rugosas – these are mostly turn of of the century selections or hybrids of Rosa rugosa, upright, thorny, repeat-flowering shrubs with bright green, wrinkled foliage that colours well in the autumn. Some have bright red, tomato-shaped hips. Prune established plants in the dormant season, tipping back long stems and occasionally taking out an old stem completely. To renovate, thin more drastically, taking out several old stems and cutting back one in two that remain by half.

Examples of Modern Shrub roses – Chinatown, Jacqueline du Pre, Westerland. Hybrid Musks include Buff Beauty, Cornelia and Penelope. Rugosas include Blanche double de Coubert, Hansa, Peach Grootendorst, Rosa rugosa Allba, Roseriae de L’Hay.

 

Modern Bush Roses

Since the late 19th Century much effort in rose breeding has concentrated on producing reliably free-flowering bush roses that are compact and suitable for bedding displays. The large flowered bush roses – Hybrid Teas – are remarkable for their shapely, high-centred flowers, double or single, and available in a wide range of colours. Even more dramatic for massed displays are the cluster-flowered bush roses – floribundas – with their large trusses of flowers. The range of small bush roses – miniature roses, patio roses and polyanthas is increasing all the time in response to demand for roses growing in restricted sites and container planting.

All modern bush roses are repeat-flowering, bearing their flowers on the current season’s growth. They are pruned most heavily of all roses; a large proportion of flowered wood is removed in order to stimulate growth the following season.

The main time to prune modern shrub roses is while the plants are dormant, however harsh winds may damage tall, upright, loose stems and create a gap in the soil at the base of the plant. To reduce wind-rock, cut rose bushes taller than 1m back in autumn. The rose can then be pruned normally in very early spring (February/March) once danger of prolonged frost has passed.

For large-flowered bush roses – Hybrid Teas – the main annual pruning consists of removing all unproductive and unhealthy shoots and shortening what remains. Only strong, healthy growth is retained to supply vigorous shoots in the following growing season. Remove dead and diseased wood and any stumps that did not produce worthwhile shoots. Cut away spindly shoots and those less than pencil-thickness. Remove entirely any shoots growing into the centre of the bush – or at least to a low outward facing bud. Shorten or remove one of any crossing shoots. Finally shorten the remaining stems to approximately 20cm from the ground.

For cluster-flowered shrubs – floribundas – the only difference with the larger flowered counterparts is that the healthy growth remaining is not shortened so drastically. The charm of these roses lies in their mass of flowers, so more buds are retained on a longer length of stem in order that they may develop more flowering shoots.

There may not appear to be any buds to cut too – in this instance, cut to the desired height which should stimulate a dormant bud into life. Should a stub be left above this new shoot, cut it away later.

Renovation of bush roses – hybrid teas and floribundas

Th dormant season is generally the most suitable time to carry out drastic pruning of roses even those normally pruned after flowering, although this may leave you with a season without flowers. Follow any renovation work by feeding and mulching well in Spring.

For both bush and shrub roses, hard cutting back is the simplest, if sometimes risky, renovation technique. At worst it will kill a rose that may have lingered only a short while anyway. More often it will stimulate dormant buds at the base of the plant into growth and completely reinvigorate the rose.

First cut away all the dead stems and stumps at the base of the plant. Remove any suckers. The remaining growth should be cut to within 4cm of the ground – do not worry about trying to cut to a bud, you probably won’t find one.

A less drastic treatment is to combine the elimination of all unproductive wood with overall shortening of the main stems over two years.

 

Small Bush Roses

Patio and polyantha roses are small cluster-flowerd bushes, pruned in a similar way. Miniature roses are dwarf counterparts of large flowered and cluster-flowered bushes, usually no more than 2cm tall. Their twiggy growth does not require sever pruning.

 

Climbers and ramblers

Many roses have long stems that are flexible, at least when young, allowing them to scramble through shrubs and into trees to reach for the light, their thorns giving them a powerful hold among other vegetation or on uneven surfaces.  The ramblers, including several species, usually bear clusters of small flowers in a single flush and are very vigorous, some such as Kiftsgate, overwhelmingly so.

The climbing roses are on the whole more moderate in growth, have larger flowers and offer a wider colour range. They include a few old garden roses such as Boursaults and Noisettes, as well as many modern hybrids.

Ramblers and climbers can be allowed to grow freely into strong host plants but are more commonly grown on man-made supports, where they will need training and pruning to flower well.

Modern Climbers

These roses should be trained to form frameworks of fairly stiff, long shoots which usually require tying in to supports. Their flowering laterals should be pruned annually to stimulate further flowering growth.

Examples of Modern Climbers – Aloha, Compassion, Golden Showers, Handel, New Dawn, Schoolgirl,

Formative Pruning of modern climbers

Climbers are sold with much longer shoots than shrub or bush roses and these should not be pruned, leaving plenty of buds from which new shoots can break when new growth begins. Once growth does start, if the main stem or stems are slow to branch, tip-prune them to the first strong outward facing bud to encourage a lateral to develop. Fan out the remaining stems from the start, spacing them evenly and tie in laterals, training them to the horizontal as they develop. Always cover the lower parts of the wall or fence from the beginning. The stems must be guided while still young and pliable and tied in, well-spaced, to form a strong, well-structured framework. Until this is established no other pruning is necessary except to remove dead, damaged diseased or spindly, leafless growth and any suckers and to deadhead repeat-flowering climbers to encourage more flowers later.

Established Pruning of modern climbers

Once the rose has filled the allotted space, its framework branches are regularly renewed, removing old growth in favour of vigorous young stems. At the edges, growth that needs shortening can be done at any time, as can tying in of new shoots. Prune flowered seditious to stimulate the remaining portion to develop flowering side shoots in the next year. Once the system becomes less productive, usually after three years, no more, cut it to a lower new shoot, tying this in to fill the gap. On a mature climber, an entire main stem that is old and unproductive can be cut to the base – similarly if a rose has been neglected, such extensive renovation may be necessary.

Renovation of Climbers

Neglected climbers are characteristically bare at the base, with excessive top growth. Cut back to within 30cm of ground level a proportion of the main stems (as many as one in three in any year). This should encourage new growth from low down. If the rose does not respond – and some varieties are reluctant to do so – the only solution is to plant a low-growing, dense plant to hide the bare stems.

With a climber that has outgrown its space and become top-heavy, shorten all main shoots until the rose occupies not more than two-thirds of the allotted space, and prune all laterals on the main stem by two-thirds of their length, cutting back to a healthy bud or shoot.

 

Ramblers

These scrambling roses send up new, flexible cane-like shoots from the base each year. They usually flower on once, at midsummer of a little later, the small blooms often carried in large trusses of 20 or more. Entire flowering stems may be removed after flowering – or when the plant is dominate.

Examples of ramblers include Albert Barbier, Bobbie James, Paul’s Himalayan Musk, Rambling Rector, The Garland, Wedding Day

Formative training of ramblers

Ramblers should be pruned on planting to stimulate new growth from the base. Remove dead, damaged or weak growth and twiggy growth and cut the main stems to about 40cm from the ground. Fan out the shoots in the near horizontal as they grow to cover the allotted space evenly.

Pruning established ramblers 

Once the allotted area is well covered, thin and shorten excess growth after the summer flowering. Ramblers make much more new growth from the base of the plant than climbers, and this should be encouraged by cutting out one in three main stems to the base. Remove the oldest stems, cutting them in several places and teasing small sections out.

It is often recommended that all the flowering stems should be cut down but this is not necessary, since ramblers will flower for several years in the same wood and it would prevent the rambler from becoming a large and established garden feature. However it is a useful technique either for renovating a rambler or growing a more vigorous one in a small space. Feed the rose well in the spring following hard pruning.

Renovating Rambler Roses

Old, overgrown ramblers are a mass of tangled stems, some of which may have died right back down to the base. To simplify the removal of old wood, cut stems in sections. Cut out dead wood and thin and feeble-looking stems, together with any showing signs of disease. Cut out completely, or near to the ground, all old stems to leave only three or four strong young canes. Prune all laterals on these stems by 10cm.

Ramblers that are impossibly tangled and unhealthy-looking may be cut down completely to the ground in late summer. Most ramblers not only spring back to life remarkably quickly but also seem to benefit from this drastic treatment.

Ramblers grown into trees

Roses with long, arching stems tend to scramble over and through nearby plants with no encouragement but more deliberate training is needed to produce the spectacular effect f a climber of rambler that has colonised a host tree.

The tree must be healthy and strong to bear the weight and added wind resistance of the rose. It must be of a size and vigour not to be overwhelmed by the choice of rose – New Dawn would be suitable for an apple tree but Rambling Rector would need a much larger tree.

Position the rose on the windward side of the tree, so that the prevailing wind blows the shoots into the tree and bear in mud the shoots will make their way to the sunniest side of the crown, so do not choose a tree on the sunniest boundary of your garden if you want to fully enjoy the rose in flower without calling round to your neighbour’s garden. Do not plant the rose near the base of the trunk where the ground s dry and shaded – a stout rope, anchored to the ground and tied to the tree trunk or low branch is a good idea to get things started. Ramblers once in the canopy should need no further aid. Climbers, with stiffer shoots may need more guidance.

If you have grown a rambler up into a tree canopy, it is extremely difficult – but fortunately unnecessary – to regularly prune the very vigorous ramblers that are favourites for this task. If you do need to tackle a rose that has got out of hand, prune hard either after flowering or in winter, when it may be easier to tackle the job because the leaves of the tree are not in the way. Removing entire main stems at the base is best, cutting them out in sections. If this is impractical, judiciously  shorten top growth to strong replacement shoots. A well established and vigorous rambler will recover well from any amount of trimming and pruning

Vigorous roses for growing into large trees –

  • Bobbie James
  • Rambling Rector
  • Kiftsgate
  • Wedding Day
  • Malvern Hills
  • Felicite Perpetue

Less vigorous roses for smaller tree

  • Alberic Barbier
  • Cecile Brunner Clg
  • New Dawn
  • Veilchenblau
  • Francis E Lester
  • Iceberg
  • The Generous Gardener

Suggested Roses for Arches

  • A Shropshire Lad
  • Crown Princess Margareta
  • Graham Thomas
  • James Galways
  • St Swithun
  • Teasing Georia
  • The Generous Gardener
  • The Pilgrim
  • Open Arms
  • Phyllis Bide

Suggested Roses for Pergolas

  • Adelaide D’Orleans
  • Francis E Lester
  • Iceberg
  • Malvern Hills
  • Paul Noel
  • Princess Louise
  • The Generous Gardener

Roses for Pillars, posts, obelisks

  • Alchymist
  • Cecile Brunner Clg
  • Constance Spry
  • Golden Showers
  • Handel
  • Mme Isaac Pereire
  • Warm Welcome
  • The Fragrant English Climber Collection

 Shrub Roses for shaded positions

Most of the English Roses from David Austin will perform surprisingly well in partial shade with at least 4-5 hours of good sun a day. Many other repeat flowering shrub roses can also be used, including Hybrid Musks, Rugosas and Ground Covers. The most satisfactory of the summer-flooring Old Roses are the Gallicas, Damasks and Albas. Position where there is not too much competition at the roots from trees or shrubs and away from overhanging branches. As Peter Beales wrote in his seminal Classic Roses, many roses will tolerate a northerly aspect but they don’t necessarily like it!

  • A Shropshire Lad
  • Claire Austin
  • Crocus Rose
  • Crown princess Margareta
  • Darcey Bussell
  • Fighting Temeraire
  • Gertrude Jekyll
  • Harlow Carr
  • Hyde Hall
  • James Galway
  • Kew Gardens
  • Lady of Shalott
  • Queen of Sweden
  • Rosa Mundi
  • Roseriae de l’Hay
  • Susan Williams-Elli
  • The Generous Gardener
  • The Mayflower
  • Wild Edric
  • Wildeve
  • Wolverton Old Hall

Climbers for shady positions

For an open, north facing wall or other shady position with around 4 hours of sun per day. Ramblers are generally tougher creatures altogether.

  • A Shropshire Lad
  • Felicite Perpetue
  • Gertrude Jekyll
  • James Galways
  • Mme Grégoire Staechelin
  • Mme Alfred Carriere
  • Mortimer Sackler
  • Paul Noel
  • St Swithun
  • The Garland
  • The Generous Gardeners
  • The Pilgrim
  • Veilchenblau

Near thornless roses

Climbers and ramblers

  • Bleu Magenta
  • Ghislaine de Feligonde
  • Mme Alfred Carriere
  • Rosa banksiae
  • Snow Goose
  • Veilchenblau
  • Violette

Near thornless shubs

  • Gallica Roses
  • A Shropshire Lad (also climbing)
  • Golden Celebration (also climbing)
  • James Galway (also climbing)
  • Jubilee Celebration
  • Kew Gardens
  • Mortimer Sackler (also climbing)
  • Tranquility
  • Wolverton Old Hall (also climbing)

English Roses for with Outstanding Fragrance

  • Claire Austin
  • Evelyn
  • Gentle Hermione
  • Gertrude Jekyll
  • Golden Celebration
  • Harlow Carr
  • Jubilee Celebration
  • Jude the Obscure
  • Lady Emma Hamilton
  • Munstead Wood
  • Strawberry Hill
  • Scepter’d Isle
  • The Generous Gardener
  • Wild Edric
  • Wolverton Old Hall
  • Olivia Rose Austin (new)

WORKSHOPS

My next workshop at Petersham Nurseries is on Tuesday 24th February. In the meantime I’ll have been on a Rose Trip of my own to Assisi (the Italian Assisi – is there another?)  to help prune the David Austin rose gardens there and add to my knowledge of the subject.

I’ve been to several courses at the David Austin Nursery in Albrighton (near Wolverhampton) and will look out some of the photographs of one of these especially, with their Technical Director and Rosarian, Michael Marriott, which gives an idea of the scale of their growing operations, the time the process takes to create a new rose to add to their catalogue and some additional care tips. I’ll add to them from my adventures in Italy.

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Program for my next Workshop

Introduction to different types of roses

  • Wild Roses
  • Shrub Roses – Summer-fllowering Old Roses – Albas, Damasks, Gallicas, Mosses and Provences
  • Shrub Roses – Repeat-flowering Old Roses – Bourbons, Chinas, Portlands, Hybrid Perpetuals
  • Modern Shrub Roses – including Hybrid Musks, Rugosa hybrids
  • Bush Roses – hybrid teas and floribundas/ large and cluster-flowered bush roses
  • Climbers and Ramblers
  • Ground cover
  • English Roses

An introduction to scents

How to plant a rose

Pruning different types of roses – when and how – formative, regular and renovation. Tools.

  • Summer Flowering Shrub Roses and Repeat Flowering Shrub Roses
  • Bush Roses
  • English Roses
  • Climber
  • Ramblers
  • Standards

Obelisks, Pergolas, Pillars, Trees and other structures

Fertiliser and Mulches

Pests and diseases

What rose where

I’m hoping we will be able to look brieflly at the roses in the Petersham House Garden, weather and time dependent really. I’ll leave you with a reading list and quiet a lot of notes and of course, there are plenty of Old Roses and a goodly selection from David Austin on sale at the nursery!

LINKS

http://petershamnurseries.com/events/

One comment

  1. Pingback: Rose Care, Maintenance and Pruning | The Teddington Gardener

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